Thanks to our pre-booked trains, the journey to Seoul was pretty straightforward, and we arrived just after 2pm. We dropped off our big bags at the hostel and decided to stretch our legs with a walk through the park up to Seoul Tower. We’d assumed it would be a gentle afternoon stroll, but the tower sits on top of a massive hill—and hiking up it in jeans and 24°C heat was definitely more of a workout than we’d bargained for. Still, the panoramic views from the top made it all worth it.
We didn’t splash out the extra £15 to go up to the very top of the tower itself. Instead, we treated ourselves to a cold soft drink at the base, sat on a bench in the breeze, and enjoyed the beautiful view over the sprawling city below.
The next morning started very early—up at 6am to make it to the pickup point for our DMZ tour by 7. Unfortunately, it rained all day, but luckily it was the kind of activity that could still be enjoyed in the drizzle.
The DMZ—the Demilitarised Zone separating North and South Korea—is one of the most heavily guarded borders in the world, and being there felt surreal. It was both fascinating and sobering to be standing so close to a place so charged with tension and history.
Our first stop was a striking red suspension bridge stretching across a quiet river, framed by forested hills. The peaceful scenery was deceptive—especially as we explored the nearby bunkers. These relics of past conflict sit eerily quiet now, but it was clear they once played a serious role, and being there gave the whole place a slightly haunted feeling.
Next, we visited the Freedom Bridge, once used by prisoners of war returning from the North. Now it stands as a powerful symbol of hope and reunification. Nearby, we saw statues dedicated to the “comfort women,” a deeply moving tribute to the women forced into sexual slavery during wartime. It was a sobering moment and added a deeper emotional layer to the day.
We then went underground to explore the third infiltration tunnel. This tunnel was discovered after a defector tipped off the South Korean government, who drilled holes until they found the hidden passageway. It’s one of several tunnels dug secretly by the North, designed for potential invasion. Hard hats on (and very much needed, given the low ceilings), we ventured into the narrow, dimly lit passage. It was cold, damp, and slightly claustrophobic—but amazing to be standing just 170 metres from the North Korean border, the closest civilians can get.
Our final stop was the Dora Observatory. There, through binoculars, we got our first proper look into North Korea. We could see what’s referred to as the “propaganda village,” Built to flaunt North Koreas wealth when the South was much poorer, with tower blocks and buildings that are painted to appear occupied but are likely empty shells. We also spotted guard posts, statues of the North Korean leaders, and old factories standing eerily still. Although not as quiet and somber as you may be imagining as South Korea blasts K-Pop (Korean pop music) to the North as a form of propaganda. In return the North sends over ‘trash balloons’ and drops waste over the South.
We arrived back in Seoul around 4pm, feeling reflective and grateful for the experience. After such a heavy morning, we decided to spend the rest of the afternoon on a lighter note. We headed over to the jewellery district and had some fun trying on engagement rings—very exciting, as Adam had asked for some hints about my preferences and ring size! A little sparkle to end an emotional day.
Our second day in Seoul started with something a bit different—trying out a popular activity with Koreans: cosmetic procedures. The beauty industry here is huge, particularly when it comes to cosmetic surgery. In fact, it’s estimated that over 30% of Korean women have had some form of cosmetic surgery, and it’s not uncommon for parents to gift procedures to their children as graduation presents!
We weren’t going quite that far, but we were curious to try some non-invasive treatments. After losing over 7 stone over the last six years, I’ve been left with a bit of loose skin, so I opted for an ultrasound procedure that targets the collagen layer in the skin and encourages new collagen production to help tighten things up. Grace, on the other hand, has a few patches of sun damage she’s wanted to improve, so she had a laser treatment. It was a fascinating look into a part of Korean culture we’ve heard so much about, and the staff were kind and professional, making it a smooth and comfortable experience, not to mention much much cheaper than the same procedures in the UK!
With our faces and bodies freshly zapped, we spent the afternoon doing more classic tourist activities. We wandered through a preserved area of old-style Korean houses, soaking up the charm of traditional architecture, and passing through a park filled with elderly people sat playing games and chatting, then headed to a local food market.
One stall caught our eye with a sign proudly claiming it had been featured on a Netflix show about street food, so of course we had to give it a try. We sampled their dumplings and some spicy kimchi—though honestly, the dumplings were a bit underwhelming. What we *did* love were the soft dough balls we later tried, filled with different fillings—we tried cream cheese, custard, and red bean paste (which oddly tasted a bit like chocolate). Originally, we ordered just one of each, but after we thanked the stall owner in Korean, he smiled, took our bag back, and added extras of each flavour for us—such a kind gesture. In fact, everyone in Korea has been incredibly warm and welcoming; we’re often greeted with waves or a cheerful “Welcome to Korea!” as we walk around.
In the evening we met up with the two Indian guys we had met in Gyeongju. We went to a rooftop restaurant and had some pork belly stew and some breaded chicken in a tast soy sauce and spent the evening chatting, before heading home very full and sleepy.
Our final full day in Seoul—and our last in Korea—was a busy one. We had arranged to meet up with Mark, a university friend of Grace’s best friend, Lilly. Grace had met him a few times over the years, and since he’s been living in Seoul for nearly ten years teaching English, he kindly offered to show us around for the day.We met him around 11am after he finished his class. His students had even prepared a document with fun facts about Korea and its history, which was incredibly sweet. Mark used it to give us little bits of information as we explored the city, pointing out statues and sites along the way.
We started off walking through one of Seoul’s trendy shopping districts before stopping for lunch at a spot Mark recommended. We told him we wanted to try something we hadn’t seen before, and he didn’t disappoint—we had tofu pouches stuffed with flavoured rice and topped with eel, octopus, prawn, and salmon. I was a bit nervous about the eel, but it turned out to be surprisingly tasty! We also shared a spicy soup that was packed with flavour.
After lunch, we wandered toward the main palace, passing through a lively square with water features, live music, and the presidential residence in the distance. Along the way, Mark pointed out a large statue of King Sejong the Great—a deeply respected figure in Korean history. King Sejong ruled during the Joseon Dynasty and is most famous for creating Hangul, the Korean alphabet. Before Hangul, Korean was written in Classical Chinese, which was difficult for commoners to learn. By developing a simple and logical phonetic script, King Sejong made literacy more accessible to ordinary people, forever changing Korean society. He’s also credited with championing scientific and technological advancements, promoting innovation in agriculture, astronomy, and printing. Seeing his statue and learning more about him gave us a real sense of how impactful his reign was.
We arrived at Gyeongbokgung Palace just in time to watch the changing of the guard ceremony, complete with bright traditional uniforms and rhythmic drumming. Afterward, we explored the palace grounds, which were beautifully laid out with peaceful gardens, elegant pavilions, and an artificial lake reflecting the surrounding buildings. Despite being in the heart of a busy city, the palace felt calm and expansive. Towards the exit, we popped into the National Folk Museum, where we learned about daily life in Korea throughout the centuries—from traditional clothing and religious practices to family rituals and agricultural tools. It was a really enriching way to get a sense of how everyday people lived, far removed from the grandeur of the palace halls.
After soaking in some history, we stopped for a drink and considered where to go next. Mark suggested the National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art. Grace and I aren’t usually big fans of art museums—they can be pricey and a bit hit or miss for us—but since Mark had been so generous with his time, we happily went along.
And we’re so glad we did. The museum was featuring an exhibition by Ron Mueck, an Australian artist based in the UK. Entry was only about £4, and the work was super cool. Mueck creates incredibly lifelike sculptures of people—some miniature, others massive. Each one captured raw emotion so vividly it felt like the figures might blink or breathe at any moment. One of the most impressive was a huge sculpture of a woman in bed that looked like she could sit up at any moment. We also watched a short film about how the pieces were made, which gave us even more appreciation for the artistry behind them. It ended up being one of the most memorable museum visits of our trip.
We finished our day with a walk through the city, passing a beautiful Buddhist temple on the way to one of Seoul’s famous food streets. There, we had our final Korean BBQ—and finally learned we’d been doing it slightly wrong all along! Mark showed us that some of the sides, like the kimchi and bean sprouts, were actually meant to be grilled, not eaten cold like we had been doing. Better late than never!We treated Mark to dinner as a thank-you for being our tour guide, but he insisted on buying us dessert. We ended up at a soufflé pancake café, sharing a chocolate and a strawberry pancake between us. They were absolutely enormous, jiggly, and delicious—a sweet way to end our time in Korea.
Our last day wasn’t particularly exciting as we packed our bags and headed to the airport, most of the morning was spent queuing for tax refunds for all of our purchases here, we may have gone a little overboard on skincare products…
We also had a seemingly famous K-pop group on our plane people were sat with banners waiting for them to pass through security and taking photos of them as say waiting for the plane. We however didn’t have a clue who they were!
Sadly we didn’t have their first class tickets but were still on our way to our next stop: Taiwan—country number five!
I’ll tell you all about it soon. Love, Alice x